Surfing With Soldiers

It's the first week of February on the North Shore of Oahu, during the strongest El Nino ever recorded. Forecasters told us the winter of 2016 would be one of the most active Northern Pacific storm seasons in over two decades, if not ever. Fueled by record breaking water temperatures in the Pacific Ocean, one storm after another produced massive swells lighting up every break on the North Shore, reminding us all why Hawaii is the center of the surfing world.

Today, however, is a relatively quiet afternoon. The waves are small, the sky is overcast, and after the events of the past few weeks, everybody, including the ocean, is surfed-out. A break is needed. 

While the past two days have afforded everyone the opportunity to rest from one of the best runs of swell in years, two groups of men have gathered at Ehukai Beach Park on this day to paddle out, catch some waves and share some laughs. Most of the men here are soldiers from the United States Army's 25th Infantry Division, also known as the Cacti. A few of the soldiers also consider themselves surfers, while the rest admit to this being their first or second time ever on a surfboard. The other group of men are surfers by profession, and are considered to be three of the all time best. Eleven time world champion Kelly Slater, former world champion and six time Hawaiian Triple Crown winner Sunny Garcia, and current world champion John John Florence all came out to meet the soldiers from the 25th Infantry Divison and share some stories before catching a few waves together.

First Lieutenant Zachary Farkas of the 25th Infantry Division and 2016 World Champion, John John Florence, share a surf at Ehukai Beach on the North Shore of Hawaii.


Now, I am not a soldier and I am not a professional surfer. So, when a week prior, a member of the 25th Infantry asked if I was interested in being a part of this potential get together, I was excited and honored. I had a hard time believing it would actually happen, though. 

Later that week, Kelly Slater wins the Volcom Pipe Pro in what many are calling the best conditions Pipeline has seen in years. Even after the event is over, the waves continue to provide epic surf for days until finally, the ocean settles down and it's time to rest.

Then, a text. "We're on. Tomorrow afternoon. Pick you up at 2." The next day a few of the soldiers and I drive up to Ehukai Beach Park, where other guys from the 25th Infantry are waiting for us. They are a diverse group that are friendly, welcoming and visibly excited about getting to surf with each other and three world champions. We talk about how good the waves have been and I listen to stories about where they are from and about their surfing experiences, both good and bad.

John John Florence and Sunny Garcia, who I had a poster of on my wall as a kid, are the first to appear. Everyone is introduced and a few minutes is spent exchanging small talk. John John and I talk about Ocean Grove, where his Mother is from and Grandparents still live, as well as Asbury Park, where his recent movie, "A View From A Blue Moon," premiered at the Paramount Theater to a packed house less than two months prior.

Even though Slater is nowhere to be found, it's time for a group shot. Everyone tightens and the guys in front take a knee. Suddenly, Slater jumps down onto the beach seemingly form the sky and in no time, he is in perfect position for the group shot. A world champion like entrance.


Kelly Slater with members of the 25th Infantry Regimen.

After some photos are taken, everyone hangs on the beach for a few minutes then gets their boards ready. I spend some time adjusting the water housing for my camera and look up to see John John and the majority of the soldiers getting into the water, so I start to walk towards the shoreline to catch up. After getting about halfway down the beach, I turn around to see Slater jogging towards me. He catches up, slows down, and starts to point out how most of the soldiers are getting caught in a rip and that by the time they make it out past the breaking waves, they will be 100 yards down the beach. Information I appreciate.

We both stop at the shoreline and I start to put on my fins while Kelly stretches and adjusts his leash. I ask him if he can ever remember the waves being as good here as they have been for the past two weeks and he tells me that this is by far the best winter he can remember for Hawaii. He then suggests we walk down the beach to use the current for our benefit. 

Sunny Garcia and Zachary Farkas, a soldier, are also with us so we all get in the water and make our way out. Slater was right, even though the waves are relatively small, the current is strong. For the next hour, the men of the 25th Infantry share waves with one another and three of the best surfers in the world. 

The clouds are moving fast now and occasionally bring a few drops of rain with them. Over by Keana Point, the sun appears, providing a light show that only the North Shore of Oahu can produce. I am near John John at this point and we begin to talk about how amazing the lighting is and I ask john if I can take a picture of him looking out towards the horizon. 

John John Florence.

At this point, Slater and most of the men from the 25th Infantry are back on the beach, chatting and watching the sunset. I swim in and some of us stay to watch a wall of rain move out over the ocean. I mention how it reminds me of sunsets I've seen in Florida to which Slater agrees and adds, "maybe even Puerto Rico," which isn't surprising considering Puerto Rico is often referred to as the Hawaii of the Atlantic. We end up watching the colors pop and fade away, then we call it a day and say our goodbyes. 

A little more than two weeks later, John John Florence would go on to win the Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau at Waimea Bay and ultimately, the WSL World Title. Sandwiched between Kelly Slater's victory at Pipeline and John John's win in "The Eddie," two groups of men from very different backgrounds and professions were able share in the fun and excitement that surfing provides for so many. Something I believe both the soldiers and surfers won't forget anytime soon. I know I won't.

Using Format